After a 2 year hiatus of focused writing, I’ve remembered how much of a positive impact it has in my life. It encourages my reflection, forces me to concentrate my thoughts, and allows me to share my life with the rest of the world. So, for the first time in about 2 years, here’s another adventure from my life, this time, in Istanbul, Turkey.
Overlooking the Spice Bazaar in the Eminonu district of Istanbul stands the old Buyuk Valide Han, an Ottoman square that has housed traders and merchants for over 400 years.
Thanks in part to Daniel Craig and the 2012 James Bond film, Skyfall, the backstreet market has received a slight increase in tourism over the past few years. Bond (Craig) flies through Buyuk Valide Han on his bike, traversing up staircases and then onto roofs at the Grand Bazaar to chase a man who has a list of undercover agents.
Skyfall
Mendes, Sam, director. Skyfall. Metro Goldwyn Mayer ; Columbia ; Albert R. Broccoli's Eon Productions LTD., 2012.
While the film is enticing and the action ranks highly among the Bond chase-scene aficionados (YouTube commenters), the quick pace leaves the viewers with minuscule glimpses of the surroundings and particularly breathtaking views.
Often called the best view of Istanbul, the top of Buyuk Valide Han has a viewpoint at the rooftop that Instagrammers and urban explorers alike sought to get to. This can prove to be rather difficult when the area is primarily workshops and residential spaces that are frequently used by locals.
If you were to look up Buyuk Valide Han reviews for the sunrise, there are two frequent comments you will find. 1) You will witness one of the picturesque sunrises of your life and 2) It is nearly impossible to find the entrance to the top without direction. It is even more difficult when the urban explorer chooses to search for the market at 6am in the pitch black, unlit streets with little knowledge of Turkish.
In my experience, there is nothing more daunting than traversing an unknown, abandoned building in the dim hours of the morning with no understanding of the local language, and having your phone as the only light source. I honestly felt like a video game character on a quest, navigating through dark hallways and climbing up stairs in hopes of finding the door to the rooftop. The only sounds were grunts of blacksmiths and craftsmen at work, toiling away to make handmade goods to bring to the Grand Bazaar hours later. There were seriously moments where I felt like I was about to be robbed around the next corner, or I’d run into some company I was not supposed to run into. It was eerie.
Enter Mr. Mehdi (click link to see the cutest old man ever).
70 years old, standing at about 158cm (5’2”), and equipped with the cutest, friendliest voice you will ever imagine, Mr. Mehdi is the keeper of the view. Mr. Mehdi stands watch at a behemoth iron gate leading to the top, and only by slipping him a few Turkish Lira ($1) , would he allow you to enter using his keys.
Unfortunately, due to tourists and locals going up and jumping on the rooftop domes, the original way up to the rooftop has been closed. Roofs have been broken, people have gotten injured, and the government has put the rooftop under “restoration", except no progress has been made at all in a couple years. It’s essentially closed.
Nevertheless, the enterprising Mr. Mehdi found another rooftop on the opposite side of the square, where he continues to guide wanderers to the most outstanding viewpoint of Istanbul. You can see the tops of the religious bastions the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, as well as a perfect shot of the Yeni Cami. You can feel the bustle and trade at the Spice Bazaar as well as the famed 700-year old Grand Bazaar. You can hear the ferries on the Bosphorus and through the Golden Horn. You stare into Galata Tower in its 1550th year of existence.
I love how you can witness the cosmopolitan heart of humanity across centuries and millennia in a simple view. Mr. Mehdi will offer you a cup of Cay (“chai”) which is the traditional Turkish black tea. Cuddle with one of his tens of kittens on your lap while you overlook the world, or let one climb into your bag and claw at you while you try to wake him from his nap.
across the golden horn
Some stranger ruining the beautiful view
Check meow-t
Good thing I’m not allergic to cats at all…
Mr. Mehdi, I highly doubt you’ll ever read this but thank you for sharing your rooftop with the world. It encompasses eons of culture and heart.